How to change the Brake Pads and Rotors for 2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7
What we should prepare?
Parts/consumables I needed:
I went for the cheap parts because in upstate NY these parts corrode so fast. HexAutoParts.com you can trust to choose what you want. You may be able to turn your rotors too, but you'll need to run to a shop to get them done.
(2) Front brake rotor (I used "Wearever" brand)
(1) Set Front brake pads (I used "Wearever" Gold, 1 time lifetime free replacement)
Brake Lubricant
(1) Can brake cleaner
Tools I needed:
Torx bit (star) to remove caliper slide bolts
Socket set and 3/8 ratchet
(2) 8" C clamps
Rubber mallet
File
Wire wheel
Best Practices
1.Be sure to organize your work area, put tools away that are not being used
2.Be especially careful to organize the bolts and nuts (washers, O rings, gaskets, etc) you remove. I use zip lock baggies and write on them if it's a large project (like this one).
3.Make sure someone knows to check in on you if you are working alone under a car
4.Think about what you are doing, don't just listen to some guy from the internet
Overview
I used this process to replace the corroded front brake rotors and worn pads on my GC. It was relatively easy and you should expect to take about 30 - 40 minutes per wheel once the Jeep is in the air.
Remove the caliper
Remove the brake reservoir cap or remove some fluid from the reservoir. Once the GC is in the air and secure, remove the wheel and look around the caliper to the inside. You will see rubber boots with caps, remove these caps and there are your caliper slide pins. I removed them with a torx bit and slid them out with a flat bladed screwdriver on the thread side. Be careful not to damage these as the caliper is supposed to slide easily on them.
Now remove the caliper springs. I could not get them to come out as illustrated so I had to just tweak them out of the way. Try to retain the original bends in the spring as much as possible as this is used to hold the caliper on the outboard side.
Once the pins are free the caliper should move freely, if not then you should pry the shoes out using a flat bladed screwdriver.
Once the caliper is free I used some wire to secure it to the spring so all of the weight wasn't being supported by the brake line. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER WEIGHT BE SUPPORTED BY THE BRAKE LINE！
Remove the caliper anchor / Remove the rotor
With the pads removed and pistons pushed in, start to remove the caliper anchor. Two hex bolts hold these in, use the mallet and/or PB Blaster to help break them.
Once the caliper anchor is off, the rotor is free to come off. I needed to heat between the lugs and tap the rotor off with the mallet.
Install new parts
Take the new rotor and clean it up back and front with the brake cleaner and a clean cloth to remove the preservative grease. Then I applied some anti-sieze compound to the hub just between the lugs to help with removal of the rotor next time. Once the rotor is in place it's time to reinstall the caliper anchor and caliper with new pads.
Now it's time to recondition the caliper anchor and reinstall everything. I used a file to recondition the pad slides on the caliper anchor, then wire wheeled everything to clean it up. Grease the pad slides and reinstall the caliper anchor to the knuckle.
Once the anchor is in place, grease and install the inboard (inside) pad onto the caliper piston. There are two spring clips that insert directly into the piston cavity. grease the piston boot where it will meet the pad and then snap the pad on.
Place the outboard pad onto the caliper anchor outboard slide and start to lower the caliper into position. Clean and grease the caliper pins and insert them into the rubber boot, slide them into the threads on the anchor and tighten.
Note
The pads need to slide easily in the guides seen here so be sure they are smooth and well lubricated both inboard and outboard.
Original guide you can visit Reddit.com
Parts/consumables I needed:
I went for the cheap parts because in upstate NY these parts corrode so fast. HexAutoParts.com you can trust to choose what you want. You may be able to turn your rotors too, but you'll need to run to a shop to get them done.
(2) Front brake rotor (I used "Wearever" brand)
(1) Set Front brake pads (I used "Wearever" Gold, 1 time lifetime free replacement)
Brake Lubricant
(1) Can brake cleaner
Tools I needed:
Torx bit (star) to remove caliper slide bolts
Socket set and 3/8 ratchet
(2) 8" C clamps
Rubber mallet
File
Wire wheel
Best Practices
1.Be sure to organize your work area, put tools away that are not being used
2.Be especially careful to organize the bolts and nuts (washers, O rings, gaskets, etc) you remove. I use zip lock baggies and write on them if it's a large project (like this one).
3.Make sure someone knows to check in on you if you are working alone under a car
4.Think about what you are doing, don't just listen to some guy from the internet
Overview
I used this process to replace the corroded front brake rotors and worn pads on my GC. It was relatively easy and you should expect to take about 30 - 40 minutes per wheel once the Jeep is in the air.
Remove the caliper
Remove the brake reservoir cap or remove some fluid from the reservoir. Once the GC is in the air and secure, remove the wheel and look around the caliper to the inside. You will see rubber boots with caps, remove these caps and there are your caliper slide pins. I removed them with a torx bit and slid them out with a flat bladed screwdriver on the thread side. Be careful not to damage these as the caliper is supposed to slide easily on them.
Now remove the caliper springs. I could not get them to come out as illustrated so I had to just tweak them out of the way. Try to retain the original bends in the spring as much as possible as this is used to hold the caliper on the outboard side.
Once the pins are free the caliper should move freely, if not then you should pry the shoes out using a flat bladed screwdriver.
Once the caliper is free I used some wire to secure it to the spring so all of the weight wasn't being supported by the brake line. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER WEIGHT BE SUPPORTED BY THE BRAKE LINE！
Remove the caliper anchor / Remove the rotor
With the pads removed and pistons pushed in, start to remove the caliper anchor. Two hex bolts hold these in, use the mallet and/or PB Blaster to help break them.
Once the caliper anchor is off, the rotor is free to come off. I needed to heat between the lugs and tap the rotor off with the mallet.
Install new parts
Take the new rotor and clean it up back and front with the brake cleaner and a clean cloth to remove the preservative grease. Then I applied some anti-sieze compound to the hub just between the lugs to help with removal of the rotor next time. Once the rotor is in place it's time to reinstall the caliper anchor and caliper with new pads.
Now it's time to recondition the caliper anchor and reinstall everything. I used a file to recondition the pad slides on the caliper anchor, then wire wheeled everything to clean it up. Grease the pad slides and reinstall the caliper anchor to the knuckle.
Once the anchor is in place, grease and install the inboard (inside) pad onto the caliper piston. There are two spring clips that insert directly into the piston cavity. grease the piston boot where it will meet the pad and then snap the pad on.
Place the outboard pad onto the caliper anchor outboard slide and start to lower the caliper into position. Clean and grease the caliper pins and insert them into the rubber boot, slide them into the threads on the anchor and tighten.
Note
The pads need to slide easily in the guides seen here so be sure they are smooth and well lubricated both inboard and outboard.
Original guide you can visit Reddit.com
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